Saddlery Equipment

 

 

Saddle Fitting

In order to keep your saddle fitting well, you should have the fit of your new saddle checked after 4-6 weeks of riding to ensure sufficient clearance is still being provided to your horse's wither.

We recommend riders  check the fit of their saddles after 3 months and then every 6 months throughout their saddle's life , to ensure the saddle continues to fit correctly as the horse changes shape according to its level of fitness.

If the saddle comes too close to the wither the horse's back should be measured using our Easy- Measure Gullet Gauge . This will determine whether or not the correct gullet is fitted and the saddle is still too low to the wither then extra flocking should be added to the panels by Blair to raise the saddle height over the wither.

Rug Fitting

All horse rugs should be designed to fit your horse as securely, safely and as comfortably as possible. This ensures complete protection while giving you peace of mind that your horse rugs will stay in place, performing reliably all day long.

It is very important to make sure that any sheet or rug/blanket you put on your horse fits properly to ensure your horse's comfort and safety. An improperly fitted rug/blanket can cause shoulder and wither rubs and can endanger your horse,especially if the rug/blanket is too big. 

Here's how to measure your horse for a rug/blanket-and then fit your new rug/blanket. Why not print this guide out and pin it on your stable wall as a reminder?

Step1: Measure your horse to find the right size.

There are 2 ways to measure your horse:

a. Chest to tail-from the centre of the chest to the furthest rear point of the rump measuring along the side of the horse.

b.Wither to tail- measuring straight from top of wither to top of tail.

Refer to the Universal Size Chart to determine the right size rug/blanket based on your horse's measurement.

UK / AUS EURO      USA     NZ

4'0   75cm/120cm        48"       2'9

4'3   85cm/130cm        51"        3'0

4'6   90cm/140cm        54"       3'3

4'9   95cm/145cm         57"       3'6

5'0   105cm/155cm       60"       3'9

5'3   115cm/160cm        63"       4'0

5'6   120cm/170cm       66"       4' 3 

5'9   125cm/175cm        69"       4'6

6'0   135cm/185cm       72"        4'9

6'3   140cm/190cm       75"        5'0

6'6  150cm/200cm       78"        5'3

6'9  155cm/205cm        81"        5'6

7'0  160cm/215cm        84"        5'9

7'3   165cm/220cm       87"        6'0 

 

Step 2:Check that your rug/blanket fits.

Your horse's rug/blanket fits when the chest closure is secured on approximately the middle adjustment and the top of the tail flap falls at the top of the tail.

Step  3: fasten and adjust the straps.

a.Chest Straps- fasten chest straps so the cover meets on the 1st or 2nd buckle hole.

b.Leg Straps-pass the left leg strap between the hind legs and fasten to the left hand dee-ring. Cross the right leg strap through the left leg strap and fasten to the right hand dee-ring. Ensure the leg straps are adjusted so you can only fit a hand's width between each leg strap and each of your horse's thighs.  Clips should face inwards to the horse to reduce the chance of catching on fences or other hazards.

c.Surcingles-fasten belly surcingles and adjust straps to allow a hand's width between straps and belly.

That's it!

Your horse is now ready to enjoy the comfort ,protection and reliable fir of your horse rug/blanket.

Common problems/Incorrect fitting rugs.

• A rug/blanket that that is too big is actually more likely to cause rubs than one that is too small, and this can be dangerous.
• If the rug/blanket extends beyond the top of the tail, the rug/blanket is too big. If the rug/blanket does not reach the top of the tail the rug/blanket is too small.
• If the leg straps and surcingles are not adjusted to allow a hand's width, your horse may get his legs caught in the straps if the straps are too long. If they are too short , the straps may rub.
• If the neck of the rug is too big, the rug/blanket will hang off the back of the horse, which will place pressure on the shoulders and increase the possibility of rubbing and slippage. The horse may also be in danger of stepping on the back of the rug when trying to stand after rolling.

Remember,  if your horse is comfortable in his properly fitted rug/blanket, he will be much happier to stay dressed. A poorly fitted rug/blanket will be uncomfortable for your horse and he may try to get it off. Taking the above correct fitting steps will ensure that your new rug/blanket will not rub and will provide ultimate fit, protection and freedom of movement.          

Leather Saddle Care 

"Leather loses a percentage of its fat content every day of its life, and just as we need food to replace our used energy so leather needs constant replenishment if it is to continue to lead a useful life."

(Hartley Edwards. E.,1963,saddlery)

Proper saddle care is crucial to maximising the performance of a leather saddle. Please appreciate the beautiful leather used in your saddle. It is a natural product and its life is reliant on maintaining a certain level of moisture and fat.

Without the oil our bodies produce,our skin would dry out and eventually peel or crack. The same symptoms will occur in your leather saddle if you do not replenish the oils, fats and waxes lost through evaporation, heat and wear.

Proper saddle care consists of cleaning , oiling and sealing your saddle.

• Cleaning removes the dirt and dust from your saddle.
• Oiling replaces the moisture and fat content that the leather in your saddle requires.
• Sealing protects the surface from water and sweat.

Before using a new leather saddle it requires oiling and Sealing. Not all parts of the saddle should be oiled. Please refer to the diagram of your saddle and fully read the instructions before you commence Oiling.
Points to remember

ALWAYS  APPLY OIL IN MODERATION.If a saddle is over oiled it is not possible to remove the oil and start again.

DO NOT OIL GIRTH POINTS. This over softens and weakens the points causing excessive stretch. As a result early   replacement of the points will be required. 

DO NOT OVER OIL PADDED INSERTS. This may cause delamination and over softening of the insert leather.

DO NOT OIL OR CREAM SUEDE. Clean suede using a suede brush.

Do not use mineral or vegetable oils.

Do not use hot oil or water on leather.

Do not ever dry your saddle near any artificial heat or in direct sunlight when it has been used in wet conditions.

 

Synthetic Saddle Care

Synthetic saddles are essentially maintenance free and can be hosed down or wiped clean. To clean hi-grip sections use a damp cloth and water or for more aggressive cleaning use soap and water.
To remove any stubborn marks from hi-grip suede or synthetic leather we recommend using a synthetic saddle cleaner available in a spray bottle.
All synthetic saddles should be dried out of direct sunlight and heat or solvents should not be applied to the materials.
Leather girth points should be cleaned with saddle soap and dressed with a good quality wax based leather cream. Do not use an oil or greasy dressing as this will over soften the leather and cause the girth points to stretch.
Synthetic girth points require no maintenance and should not be dressed with oil or wax.

Helmet Fitting

When deciding on the right protection for your head there is no room for compromise.

HOW helmets work
A helmet is lined with microscopic bubble wrap. The bursting of the bubbles absorbs the impact. The hard shell spreads the area of contact over a much larger load bearing area. Helmets should be replaced after a blow to the head, especially if the wearer loses consciousness. The expected life span of a helmet for an average rider is five years.
A helmet that moves on the head significantly reduces the level of protection it is designed to offer.
BUYING a helmet
Do check in regard to safety standard requirements. Fitting is extremely important and each helmet does fit differently. We will be able to help you choose the right model and make any necessary adjustments. The helmet should be a snug fit when new, as it does mould to the shape of your head. A helmet should never rock backwards and forwards excessively.
A correctly styled helmet will enhance your riding profile, and different styles have been developed for each riding discipline. Remember that there is a helmet to fit every budget without compromising safety, but regular riders will enjoy using the premium ranges.

BUYING a bit

Always measure your horse's mouth to ensure the correct bit size. A mullen or straight mouth will require to be smaller than a jointed one which has to allow for the angle of the joint.

Never use a bit that is too narrow, it will pinch and fret the horse, besides giving it a sore mouth.

If  the horse's mouth is between sizes , choose the larger, rather than the smaller one, but remember a bit that is too wide and large , will slip from side to side and cause bruising.

A well fitting bit should lie comfortably between the lips without undue wrinkling and certainly no pinching of either the lips or corners of the mouth, nor slip from side to side.

Remember a thick mouthpiece affords a good baring surface and will not cut or bruise; whereas a thin one will. The former is kind, and the latter severe- the thinner the mouthpiece the greater the sharpness and severity. A very thin one is wickedly cruel on its own.

Joints-these have their severity governed by the thickness and angle of the mouthpiece. The straighter the arms, the sharper the nut cracker action. Test the angle on your finger and hand.

Choose a milder bit rather than a stronger one if the horse refuses to accept or obey its current bit; less pain will often answer better than more pain. A horse playing up from pain or running away will only calm down or stop when the pain does.

Another point to remember is that many horses play up or refuse to accept their bit, not through the bit being at fault, but owing to pain in their mouth. Teeth beingthe prime, cause for not only do they cause very painful sores inside the cheeks and on the sides of the tongue if sharo, but in the case of wolf teeth being present, interfere with the bititself. Teeth must be inspected regularly and filed  (rasped or floated) to remove the sharp spurs (edges)that occur throughthe shape of the horses' jaw. Wolf teeth are best removed by a veterinary surgeon. Teeth are also responsible for the chewing up of soft rubber covered mouthpieces. No mouthpiece of soft rubber construction can withstand sharp teeth. It is the owner who is responsible , not the manufacturer under such circumstances.

No two horses' mouths are the same - the size of the tongue and the coarseness of the skin covering it, coupled with the sensitivity of the skin and its thickness covering the bars; as well as the lenght of the mouth and the position  of any tushes, and condition of the teeth in general, all govern the type of the bit most suitable. Pelhams suit short mouthed horses; doubles only long mouthed ones, while any of the nosebands used in conjunction with a jointed snaffle, that fasten below the bit, require a long mouthed horse to fit correctly. No noseband should be lower than four aduld fingers width above the nostril- they must rest on the solid nasal bone, and have two fingers room between the strap and the face.

Lastly - all bits must be clean and free from dirt, which if not removed will cause a sore mouth.